Moving on up: Rock climbing becomes mainstream sport
By Leonard Buttsof The Daily Times Staff
Originally published: August 13. 2008 3:01AM
Last modified: August 13. 2008 10:34AM
Editor’s Note: On a summer afternoon when Daily Times photographer Mark Large hung by the fingertips of one hand from an office door frame to demonstrate his rock climbing technique, there was no recourse but to let him get outside and onto the real thing.
At Eagle Rock Camp and Retreat Center off the Foothills Parkway, a natural rock face of sandstone waits for climbers each day.
The 45-foot wall, which is the setting for one of the most popular activities at the ministry outpost of the Fellowship of Christians in Action, Inc. of Central Florida, seemed like a good place to discuss the popularity of a sport that’s been around as long as there has been curiosity about what’s over that next hill or ridge or mountain.
Daily Times photographer Mark Large, who has been climbing for about 14 years, quickly set his lines — not without showering those below with a few rocks — so he could swing from his harness and photograph anyone who cared to give the wall a hug.
John Nowell, of Knox Rocks Climbing Service, agreed to supervise the outing, which was hosted by Eagle Retreat program director Jonah Jackson and facilities director Bryan Brown.
The trio was joined by Amanda Davis, Ted Kalloway, Ameris Houston and Joenna Riendeau, as well as Daily Times correspondent and novice climber Courtlin Byrd, for the demonstration.
“Typically, people have some idea in mind — either this is climbing or I have no idea what climbing is and I want someone to show me,” Nowell said. “What I like to do is just get them the experience. Get them in a harness, get them climbing, get them the feeling of what it’s like to be on rock.
“That way, they can get an idea of what’s going on. And then from there, we typically teach the mechanics, equipment, risk management procedure and things of that nature so they can have a better understanding of the foundational skills. Next, we start developing goals.”
That’s easy in Tennessee, Nowell says, because there’s such a large quantity of rock suitable for every age and ability level.
“Things from very low angle slabs that are super easy — we’ve got a summer program we do with 8-year-olds — to team-building programs with corporate groups,” he said. “We’ve got individuals who want to get in shape, have some fun and be in a beautiful environment and not have to worry so much about all the technical aspects. I’ve got other people who want to do Denali, so they want to understand the basics of rope work.
Great cross training
“That’s the really cool thing about the sport. You can take it so many different directions. And it’s great cross training for just about any other sport you can think of.”
The success of Nowell’s guide and climbing service is indicative of how quickly the sport has grown and of how far-reaching it has become. Climbing clubs have become popular in schools, gyms have incorporated walls into an array of workout equipment and businesses have adopted climbing as a motivational activity.
“When I started teaching, it was predominantly individuals and not so much mainstream,” said Nowell, who got interested in climbing at Camp Montvale when he was 12 years old. “Now there is a lot more done educationally with climbing.
“Most people are surprised at what they can accomplish. Everyone is supportive.
There’s no winner or loser. Different ability levels can climb together.”
Large got interested in climbing through the Boy Scouts.
“I used to work at a Boy Scout camp. I started off rappelling and then I helped out Boy Scouts with rope courses,” Large said. “A friend of mine said, ‘let’s go climbing.’
We knew the gear and how it works, but the climbing part, we didn’t know anything.
“We were dangerous. But we learned a lot. We probably could have killed ourselves but we didn’t.”
Instructors needed
That’s why novices need instructors and mentors, Large said. Although climbing can be dangerous, the risks are lessened by gaining a thorough knowledge of equipment and technique.
“It’s all about knowing your ability and knowing how to climb and knowing yourself,” Large said. “If you’re a novice, you need someone to spot the dangers for you. A lot of it is about trust, too.”
Although there are plenty of places in the Smokies where climbers can test their skills, the prime venue for most experienced climbers in this area is the Obed on the Cumberland Plateau.
“The Obed is the home crag because it’s closest to Knoxville,” Nowell said. “The Obed is world renowned. People come from all over to climb there in the wild and scenic environment.”
The variety of climbing activities available in East Tennessee is also a draw for outdoor enthusiasts of varying degrees of skills.
“There’s super steep overhanging stuff that’s really tugging on your arms and requiring you to use a lot of core tension and abdominal muscles and back muscles,” Nowell said.
“But there’s also thin delicate balancing routes that force you to focus on your footwork and staying in balance and performing very precise movements that require flexibility and agility, and resemble more of a ballet-type climb than a gymnastic climb. You can get a taste of everything in this area.”
Climbing fits into the feel of East Tennessee, Nowell says, not only because of the terrain but also because of the people who live here.
“The friendliness of the climbing community is like the friendliness of the South,” Nowell said.
“That kind of hospitality is part of climbing.”
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