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When pairing cocktails with corn -- on the cob, in a salad, on the grill -- the key is not to duplicate the flavor or character of summer's symbolic grain.

"Ingredients and recipes that harmonize with the flavor of corn dishes bring out the best in the drink and the dish," says Ted Haigh, author of "Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails."

"For corn, that suggests mint, mole, lemon, honey," he says. "Flavors that shine individually but also coexist with the comforting richness of corn."

Haigh suggests two vintage cocktails, which he says "harmonize symphonically" with those delicious golden kernels.

One is a mint julep, but not your standard Kentucky Derby fare. Haigh's vintage version dates back to the days when the drink was made with cognac, not bourbon.

He also suggests the so-called Twentieth Century Cocktail, which goes well with any corn dish. He says its flavors of "tart lemon, a nuanced velvet maltiness, a crispy-snappy mouth-feel and subtle undertones of orange and mole" would be particularly good with a warm corn and black bean salad.

MINT JULEP

Start to finish: 5 minutes

Servings: 1

3 sprigs fresh spearmint

1âÑ2 ounce simple syrup

2 ounces young cognac

Ice

In a tall glass, combine 2 of the spearmint sprigs with the simple syrup. Muddle well, then add the cognac and stir well. Strain into a drinking glass filled with ice. Garnish with the remaining spearmint sprig.

(Recipe adapted from Ted Haigh's "Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails," Quarry Books, 2009)

TWENTIETH CENTURY COCKTAIL

Start to finish: 5 minutes

Servings: 1

11âÑ2 ounces gin

3âÑ4 ounce Lillet Blanc

1âÑ2 ounce light creme de cacao

3âÑ4 ounce lemon juice

Ice

Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker. Shake well, then strain into a cocktail glass. If desired, garnish with a lemon twist.

(Recipe adapted from Ted Haigh's "Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails," Quarry Books, 2009)

GRILLED CORN WITH CHEESE AND CHILI

Start to finish: 1 hour 45 minutes (25 minutes active)

Servings: 6

6 ears sweet corn, silk removed but husks left attached

1âÑ2 cup sour cream

2 tablespoons whole milk

3 tablespoons butter, melted

1 lime, halved

1âÑ2 cup finely grated queso anejo, queso fresco or Parmesan cheese

1 tablespoon chili powder

11âÑ2 teaspoons kosher salt

Arrange the husks so that they cover the ears of corn, then place them in a large bowl or pot. Add enough cold water to cover, then use a plate to weigh down the corn and keep it submerged. Soak for 1 to 4 hours.

When ready to cook, in a small bowl, mix together the sour cream and milk. Set aside.

Heat a grill to medium-high. If possible, adjust the grilling rack to sit about 4 inches from the flames.

Drain the corn, but do not remove the husks. Arrange the corn on the grill and cook, turning frequently, until crisp-tender, about 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the corn from the grill and allow it to cool slightly.

Pull the husks back to form a handle, then brush the ears with the melted butter. Squeeze the limes over the corn, then return the corn to the grill and cook, turning occasionally, for 5 to 10 minutes, or until lightly browned in places.

Remove the corn from the heat and brush with the sour cream mixture. Divide the cheese evenly between the ears of corn, using it to coat them on all sides. Sprinkle with chili powder and salt.

(Recipe from Emeril Lagasse's "Emeril at the Grill," Harper Studio, 2009)

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